DON’T MISS EATING AT RAYAR’S MESS IN CHENNAI!
Nestled in a hole in the wall in one of Mylapore’s bylanes, this tiny pre-independence restaurant in Chennai is famous for steaming hot Idlis, Vadais, Pongal and fresh Coconut Chutney.
Rayar’s Mess is a tiny room with 16 seats, and it opens at 7 am, when brothers P. Kumar and P. Mohan open the doors to desperate office goers hungry for their breakfast. For many, it’s a tradition — following their morning rituals with hot, hot idlis — for years.
“Our USP is hot, steaming food straight from the kitchen, ready when the crowd sets in at 7am,” says Mohan, over the din of the dosai-mao grinder, “Our idlis come out steaming just a few minutes before we start to serve.”
Six people make up Rayar’s crew — Kumar does most of the cooking, with one help, while Mohan who tends to be more talkative – “Wango! Wango!” he intones as he gets people to sit and starts serving hungry bellies fresh from a walk or jog on nearby Marina Beach.
Customers are not not just Mylaporeans, you have North Indians showing up waiting eagerly in line for Rayar’s legendary fluffy idlis. For some patrons, “the vadai is irresistible.”
Others find the ‘unadulterated home-style food’ a big draw or even the chutneys that Rayar’s dishes out.
“Our Coconut Chutney has plenty of coconut, that’s what its all about, along with roasted Bengal gram, salt and a bit of green chilli. That’s the special combination we’ve always used. Our ‘Green Chilli Chutney’, is another reason people keep coming back. Some come all the way just for that. Some folks will get up and leave in a huff if we run out of it.”
The intriguing billing process at Rayar’s is much talked about — there is no bill given to customers. Once a ‘batch’ of patrons finish eating, they hang around drinking coffee till Mohan goes around asking them to tell him what they ate.
The billing practice at Rayar’s is unique. “We run this place entirely on trust,” says Mohan. “My grandfather and father used a piece of chalk writing customers bills on a slate, trusting them fully. I use a sheet of paper. Most people who come are regulars. For newcomers, it’s a novel experience.”
Sometimes people forget something they’ve eaten, and come back to pay later.
Rayar’s Mess is open from 7 am to 10 am and 3 pm to 6 pm every day. They are closed on Sunday evenings. They are now located at New No. 31, Arundale Street, Mylapore, Chennai. For details, call +91 9940425551.